Pedro Telmo Pizza and Cafe House: Bolivar 962. Buenos Aires

Pedro Telmo Pizza and Cafe House: Bolivar 962
Topic: Food & Wine in Argentina
The glory of comfort food:

San Telmo Vegtable & Antiques Market Place Pedro Telmo Pizza and Cafe House: Bolivar 962
San Telmo is the old quarter of Buenos Aires, now known for its bohemian arts and antiques, this has become a real hot spot in Buenos Aires.

Indeed, in recent years, San Telmo has become the place to be in for artists, young vanguards and intellectuals of all kinds. It’s a growing neighborhood that’s mutating from interesting, traditional and old to new, hip and a very Tango like flavor place.

Along this transition the neighborhood is going thru many things changing, evolving and transforming.

Old darkish bars turn into modern cafes, dinners mutate into bistros and commune homes recycle into outstanding modern design places.

However, in the middle of this turmoil of modernity and change, there are some things and places that prevail unaltered… charming and traditional, featuring their original feel of comfort and belonging. These are those places that if altered to fit new style standards would loose what makes of them a perfect place. Small, a bit dark and smutty within its own charm, these shops have mastered throughout the years a true, original and authentic style in their food and service that makes of them perfect places people tend to point as homes outside their home.

Pedro Telmo is –no doubt about it- one of these places. Located in the heart of San Telmo, at one of the sides of the charming Fruits, Meat and Antiques Market, Pedro Telmo is an everlasting trademark of the neighborhood. This is a family run place, and all those who come in –whether it’s just for a coffee or for a big meal- are immediately considered part of the huge family that is Pedro Telmo. “La Negrita” is the mother of the owner, she, with her 70 years of age personally looks after you, so everything is working perfectly throughout your stay. This is not a preconceived service –as it happens in chic, hip restaurants- it’s her true nature of sweetness and charm. She’s a joyful and warm woman, who would take your order, help you choose the best of the day’s specialties, and offer a complementary espresso after your meal, just because she loves people who enjoy her food and place.

The pace fits around 20 tables, in summer or sunny weekend days tables are set on the sidewalk for people to enjoy great food under a clear blue sky. The kitchen is open, you can see when your order is coming, when it’s being prepared in the huge pizza oven that’s the center piece of a medium size kitchen. The food is simple and tasty. The options are not pretentious, but there’s a broad variety of dishes to choose from, all which are freshly made depending on what’s good in the market that morning. Pizza is their specialty, as well as stuffed dough empanadas –cheese, ham, meat, chicken, veggies…- the cook has mastered the process and his pizza is fabulous, tasty, crunchy and delightful. I know, it’s just a slice of pizza, but this is one great slice!

While Pedro Telmo is indeed a restaurant, it has come to be more than that throughout the years. People not only come to eat, or have a quick coffee. Pedro Telmo and its charm have transformed its restaurant aspect into a cafe like feel (see our article on Argentine Cafes). This means that apart from the fact that the place served food, it’s become a reunion spot, a hangout place… If you have the opportunity of spending a couple of minutes in Pedro Telmo you’ll witness some of its magic. While people come and go, for food, coffee and takeout, others just come and drop by to greet the owner, the cook, give Mamma Negra a hug and a kiss… If your Spanish allows it, you’ll understand everyone knows everyone, Mamma Negrita knows everything’s going on with their lives and in a sweet way she inquires about projects, love life and an endless list of other meaningful everyday life aspects.
When in Pedro Telmo, true Argentine comfort food is the rule. The best of the Argentine charming feel is in the air, for all local and foreign customers that choose this dinner for their meals, coffee and also as their hangout spot.
Not only is this a true local feel experience people have to go thru when discovering Buenos Aires and its people, but it’s something that once tried you’ll always want to return.

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